Process for making garments



Oct. 7, 1941. R. H. REISS ET AL 2,258,100

PROCESS FOR MAKING GARMENTS Filed June 12, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Oct. 7, 1941. R. H. REISS ETAL 2,258,100

PROCESS FOR MAKING GARMENTS Filed June 12, 1941 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Tu SEWING OPERATIONS grvvm'vtbib rurLHReiSS Howard Oct. 7, 1941. ss E AL 2,258,100

PROCESS FOR MAKING GARMENTS Filed June 12, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Fig.1].

Fio' 73.

Patented Oct. 7, 1941 PROCESS FOR MAKING GARMENTS Raymond B. Relss, Deal, N. J., and Howard J. Billings, South Acton, Mass., assignors, by direct and mesneassignments, to Reiss Manufacturing Corporation, Jersey City, N L, a'corporation of Delaware Application June 12, 1941, Serial No. 397,808

11 Claims.

This invention is a process for making garments from fabrics and particularly garments of the type, such as mens coats, which comprises an outer garment-fabric layer and an inner stiffening layer of canvas or similar material, stitched together along spaced lines with the two layers free of one another intermediate the stitching. Garments of this type must be stitched together along spaced lines and must be non-united therebetween in order to present a proper appearance. Moreover, such garments consist of portions which must be shaped in the manufacturing process to properly conform to the part of the body which they are intended to overlie.

Heretofore it has been customary to haste together by stitching the pre-cut layers of the various portions of such garments in order to obtain the proper shaping and registration of the layers before final stitching. In this part of the process, which is known as the basting, it is a practice of the operator to apply the basting threads while manually shaping the two layers to obtain registration of the same in a shape approximating as closely as possible the final shape to be imparted to the garment portion. The basting operation is slow and is also objectionable because the basting stitching mustbe removed after final stitching and also because a skilled operator is required to impart the shape to the layers as they are being basted. The accuracy of the shape depends entirely upon the skill of the operator in adjusting and manipulating the two layers during basting to impart proper shape, such as fullness.

An object of the invention is to provide a proc ess which will unite the two layers adhesively and without stitching, thus eliminating the necessity for applying or removing basting threads, and which provides mechanical means for shaping or warping the layers during this adhesive basting, thus eliminating reliance upon the operators skill for the required shaping.

A further object of the invention is to provide a process in which the garment layers are shaped and basted without stitching at a substantial saving as compared to the cost of normal stitchbasting operations and in a manner which makes unnecessary substantial modification of, or increase expense in, subsequent manufacturing operations, thus enabling the garment to be produced at a substantial saving.

The invention is based upon the discovery that it is possible to shape or warp mechanically, as by a form, and, at the same time, to unite adhesively the layers of any given part of a garment of the coat type, in a manner which will permit the adhesive to be dissipated by a normal pressing operation, such as is ordinarily employed in the manufacturing process, and without leaving in the garment any objectionable effect of the adhesive employed in the shaping-basting opera- The process thus makes unnecessary removal of the adhesive by laundering or any special treatment of the garment after the shaping adhesive-basting operation. That is, the garment may be produced by normal manufacturing steps after the shaping and adhesive-basting at a substantial saving becaus of the elimination of stitching-basting. Moreover, when the garment is finished by a simple pressing, all visible eifect of the adhesive is eliminated so that the garment bears no indication that stitching-basting has not been employed in manufacture.

The invention is explained hereinafter in connection with the manufacture of mens coats, and more particularly, in the shaping and adhesive-basting of the front portions of such a coat. However, it will be understood that the process is not limited to use in the manufacture of coats or to those portions thereof, but may be used in the manufacture of any garment which consists of a plurality of layers which must be basted and united preliminary to final stitching and from which all visible effect of the adhesive must be eliminated by a simple pressing preferably in the presence of steam.

Referring to the accompanying drawings which illustrate an embodiment of the invention as applied to the manufacture of a front portion of a mans coat,

Figure 1 is a perspective showing a typical mechanical forming device and a pre-cut stiffening layer in the course of being positioned therein.

Figure 2 is a perspective showing the stifien ing layer in position.

Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view showing the forming device in closed position and pre-shaping the stiffening layer.

Figure 4 is a perspective showing the opened forming device and the thermoplastic adhesive being positioned thereon in particle form.

Figure 4a is a cross-sectional view of the bed of the forming device showing the spaced relation of the dry particles of adhesive.

Figure 5 is a perspective showing the outer garment-fabric layer superimposed upon the shaped stifiening layer of Figures 4 and {la with the adhesive particles therebetween.

Figure 6 is a cross-sectional view taken through the bed and head of Figure showing the shaped stiffening layer with the outer garment fabric positioned thereon and the adhesive particles therebetween.

Figure 7 is a diagrammatic view showing the initial step of treating the assembled layers of Figures 5 and 6 by a steam treatment of limited duration to bring the adhesive particles, when in dry form, to a plastic state and simultaneously to shape or warp the outer garment-fabric layer together with the pre-shaped canvas layer.

Figure 8 is a diagrammatic view similar to Figure 7 showing the succeeding step in which the shaped layers are subjected to a vacuum and pressure while the adhesive hardens.

Figure 9 is a view showing the opened forming device with assembled layers and somewhat hardened adhesive subjected to further vacuum to permit further hardening of the adhesive.

Figure 10 is a perspective showing the shaped adhesive-basted layers in a finished condition ready for final stitching-operations.

Figure 11 is a perspective showing the finally stitched front positioned on a different forming bed and being treated with thermoplastic adhesive preliminary to shaping with and adhesion to a garment fabric facing layer.

Figures 12, 13 and 14 are cross-sectional views taken through longitudinal sections of the forming bed shown in Figure 11 to illustrate the shape which is imparted to the stitched front when the garment-fabric facing is adhered thereto.

Figure 15 is a. view showing the garment fabric partially applied to the adhesive-coated outer garment fabric layer. the stiffening fabric being therebeneath.

Figure 16 is a cross-sectional view taken through the layers in the relation shown in Figure 15 with the droplets of thermoplastic adhesive between the outer garment fabric layer and the facing-garment fabric layer.

Figure 17 is a cross-sectional view showing the layers of Figure 16 being warped to suitable form while the adhesive unites the two garment fabric layers, and

Figure 18 is a perspective showing the facinggarment fabric layer adhered to the outer garment fabric layer with the stiffening fabric behind the latter.

The front portion of, for example, a man's coat is formed by initially basting and shaping a stiffening layer of canvas or about suitable stiffening material to the outer garment fabric. The pre-cut layers of such a front are shown diagrammatically in Figure 10, wherein the outer garment fabric is indicated at F and the stiffening layer at S, the two being shaped or warped to provide a certain amount of fullness, for example, at the breast portion C. It will be noted that the outer garment fabric is of considerably greater width than the stifiening layer, one edge of the latter being shown in dotted lines. The manufacture of this portion of the garment is sometimes referred to as "fronting.

After the required stitching operations upon the 'basted front comprising these two layers, it is customary to baste by stitching to the outer garment fabric layer, a layer of garment fabric known as is. facing. Referring to Figure 18, wherein the stiffening layer and outer garment fabric layer are designated by the same reference characters as in Figure 10, the narrower facing is shown at F. In basting the facing to the front, it

is desirable that the two be shaped so as to pro- I to the skill of the operator, as in the basting of the stiffening layer to the outer garment fabric. After the facing has been basted to the outer garment fabric layer, the edge stitching is run, and thereafter the basting stitching is removed, so that the front may be turned to position the facing layer on the opposite side of the stiffening layer from the outer garment fabric layer.

A similar process of shaping while stitching is also utilized in making the armhole and shoulder portions of the coat. The inner material, usually in the form of light canvas or similar fabric, lends a certain amount f stiffness to the garment, and if the sewing is properly done during the basting to provide suitable shaping, the coat will hang and set properly. In preparing the shoulder and armhole portion, it is usual to baste not only the garment fabric and stiffening canvas, but also the shoulder padding, and because of the sharp curvatures involved, it is even more difiicult to shape this portion of the garment in the basting operation.

There are, of course, many operations of shaping while stitching-basting in the manufacture of a garment, and it will be evident that in all of these operations the proper shaping depends upon the skillful manipulation of the operator.

In practicing the improved process in the manufac re of the front portion of a. coat, one of the layers, preferably the stiffening fabric, is placed upon a suitable forming device, the surface of which is shaped to conform to the shape to be imparted to the garment portion. A suitable forming device is shown in Figure l, wherein I 0 indicates the lower or buck portion of a pressing machine having a corresponding upper head" portion ll pivotally mounted as at I2 for movement toward and from the buck, the two being supported as by a base l3. Since this forming device is intended to shape the coat front. the bed is provided with a protuberance ll which registers with a corresponding depression IS in the head, so that when the fabric layers are pressed therebetween the layers are warped or bent so that a suitable fullness may be provided in the fabric portions overlying the protuberance.

The outline of a stiffening layer of suitable material is shown at S (Figure 1) about to be positioned upon the buck. It is preferred to shape preliminary this pre-cut stiffening fabric and when the same is positioned upon the buck, as shown in Figure 2, the head is lowered to apply steam and pressure so that the same is shaped as shown in Figure 3.

In pressing devices of this general character, which are known in the art, the heated head is normally hollow and connected with a pipe through which steam ma be admitted; the underside of the head is perforated for emission of steam and is suitably padded. The buck is also padded and is heated by steam. Moreover, this type of machine is provided with a vacuum chamber connected with the perforated surface of the buck to make possible the drawing of air through the fabric to withdraw most of the moisture after steaming has been completed.

, ANALOGOUS In this preliminary shaping of the pre-cut stiffening layer, as shown in Figure 3," the fabric is subjected to a steam treatment for-a suitable period, whereupon the head'is raised to permit application of an adhesive material to the preshaped stiffening layer. The adhesive is applied in particle form, and the particles may be either dry or in plastic, non-flowing state. It is desirable to avoid a highly flowing condition, since the particles would immediately penetrate-the fabric of either the canvas or the garment material subsequently positioned thereon. The adhesive particles are preferably applied in spaced relation and along lines, such as indicated by the stippled lines It (Figure 4), which are at or near the lines of subsequently applied stitching so as to maintain absolute accuracy of registration where the plies are to be finally stitched.

It is desirable that the adhesive-particles be spaced from one another somewhat to afford a discontinuous spot type adhesion, as distinguished from adhesion by a strip or film-like body. If theadhesive is to be applied in dry, comminuted form, itmay be sprinkled from a container having a perforated top such as a salt shaker l1, thus-insuring suitable separation of the dry particles and proper-distribution as shown in Figures 4 and-4a. If the adhesive is to be applied in droplet form, it. may be ejected from a spray gun l8, as shown in Figure 11. Theadhesive is maintained in the gun in heatplasticized condition wit hsufiicient body to maintain the droplet. form inwhich it is ejected from the gun upon the fabric.

Suitable adhesives for'use in particle. form, i. e., either the dry comminuted form or sprayed droplet form, are hereinafter described. It .is essential that the adhesive be applied in an amount and that it be of a character effective to cause suitable adherenceofl the two fabric layers when the adhesive is subjected to temperatures not substantially exceeding normal room temperature, i. e., those ofthe order of from 70 F. to 110 F.' Also, the adhesive must be of a character which mayv be brought to a plastic state without causing'fiow and dissipar tion into the fabric by a reasonably controlled application of heat, and which, upon further'application of heat, may be modified to cause dissipation into the fabric layers without leaving adhesive, the outer garment fabric is positioned Over the adhesive-coated stiffening layer, as shown in Figures 5 and 6, wherein the stiffening layer is indicated at S and theouter garment fabric at F. H

The two fabric layers are-then subjected to pressure, and if; the-additional shaping or softening of the adhesive is required, heat is s multaneously applied; the layers are thereby simultaneously warped and adhered. The heat may be supplied by introducing steamthrough the head as shown in Figure 7. The heat must be carefully controlled at this stage, so that wh le it is sufficient to-render the adhesive plastic, as wellas to produceany desired fabric shaping, it will not cause'the adhesive to flow into the fabric and thus remove .fromthe areas to'be adhesively joined, the amount of adhesive required for a unionbetween'the two, layers. a

When theadheslve is m drycomminutedfcrin and is of the character hereinafter described, an

liross Reference application of steam at a pressure-not exceeding fifty pounds and for a period of five seconds has been found to be suitable. The period and degree of heat application will vary for different adhesives, the essential thing being that both the period and degree of heat be regulated so that the adhesive is brought to a plastic, but nonfiowing state, thereby avoiding dissipation thereof into the fabric at this stage of the process.

Following shaping and softening of the adhesive, the plies are subjected to pressure relatively free of heat, during which period a vacuum may be drawn, as shown in Figure 5, in order to remove steam and moisture from the fabrics. The vacuum assists the pressure in holding the plies together while the adhesive reaches the state desired for adhering the layers. It is preferred that the pressure, in the absence of heat,

be followed by another period of vacuum with the head raised, as shown in Figure 9, and during this stage the vacuum removes any additional moisture while holding the plies together during further setting of the adhesive;

The adhesive-bested coat front thus produced (Fig. 10) is now-ready for the final stitching operations of the usual character well known in the art and which, therefore, need not be here described.

Following the stitching of the front portion ofthe garment and its final assembly with the other garment portions, the various portions of the garment are steam-pressed in accordance with the usual practice togivethe garment the required finished appearance. Although a great deal, if not'all, of the adhesion remains; notwithstanding the handling during the remaining steps of manufacture, theadhesion is destroyed in the final pressing, during which the various parts of thegarment are-pressed on bucks having substantiallrthe same shape as were used in the initial adhesive-basting. In this pressing, the heat is applied by steam, and the heat is regulated as to degree and period, so that the adhesive causing the remaining adherence of the garment plies will be melted and caused to flow into the fabric layers. Since the adhesive has been applied in an amount which will not leave any visible effect in the garment fabric when so melted, its presence in the fabric in a dispersed or dissipated state is not objectionable, since the finished garment 'does not show that adhesive-basting, as distinguished from stitching-basting, was initially employed. Unless the adhesive union can be virtually eliminated a garment of the coat type will not set properly and will have objectionable stiffness and rigidity, since it is essential that in coat-type garments, the plies be free of one another intermediate the stitching. 1 a

When the adhesive is usedin dry comminuted form, as hereinafter explained, it may be suitably dissipated in the final pressing operation by applying steam at ninety pounds pressure for a period of the order offive' seconds. For-different adhesives of the character herein'd'sscribed, application of'steam for varyingperiod; of time may be found desirable.

Figures 11 to 17, inclusive, showrthe application of'the process to the shapingand adhesive-basting of the facing F of garmentfabric'to the outer garment-fabric layer Although the front portion shown in Figureiothasbeen shaped in the adhesive-basting operation revioiisly described, a. further ha wh the. .fa'cma'ri applied required. Consequently, the gar'ment'fabric with tXElmlH-EY the canvas stiffening layer stitched thereto are placed upon a buck II which has along longitudinal cross-sectional lines l2-'-l2, l3-l3 and M-l-t for example, the surface contour shown, respectively, in Figures 12, 13 and 14. When the canvas and cloth layers are laid on this buck with the outer garment cloth above, as shown in Figure 11, the two layers will assume the form of the buck surface and thus insure that when the facing is laid thereon, it will have the proper shape.

The facing is applied at this stage of the operation directly to the outer garment fabric, which is ordinarily of the same material as the facing which is the exposed surface of the outwardly rolled lapel. Between the facing and the garment fabric is positioned a thermoplastic adhesive which may be applied in dry or in droplet form, as shown in Figure 11, as by a spray gun. As in the case of the dry comminuted adhesive illustrated in Figure 4, the droplets are preferably spaced, and this spacing is indicated by the stippling in Figure 11 and in Figure 16. The

droplets may be applied to either the undersurface of the facing or, as shown in Figure 11, directly to the outer garment fabric before the facing is positioned thereon.

The facing is then accurately registered with the garment fabric, as shown in Figures 15 and 16, and the two are simultaneously warped and adhered by being-subjected to pressure while the adhesive joins the two layers together, as shown in Figure 1?. Adhesive may be applied in plastic state, as in sprayed droplets, so that heat will be unnecessary. Pressure'may be applied as illustrated in Figure 17 or in any suitable manner. In some instances, for example, it may be found desirable to apply pressure manually instead of by the rigid mechanical head of the Pressing device illustrated. It will be understood, of course, that the method is not limited to the application of pressure by any particular means. Should adhesive requiring heat be used, heat should be applied for a period of time and in a degree sufficient to render it plastic without causing the adhesive to flow. Thereafter, the plies with the softened, non-flowing adhesive therebetween may be subjected to pressure in the absence of such heat as will prevent adhesion and while the adhesive unites the fabrics, the pressure being maintained to assure adhesion of the two plies while they are conformed to the surface of the supporting buck. If desired, the buck or head, or both, may be positively cooled to provide a temperature below room temperature and thus hasten the setting of the adhesive and increase the strength of the adhesive union. The shaped and adhesive-basted front (Figure 18), including the facing, is then ready for such usual stitching operations as precede the turning of the front portion to position the facing on the opposite side of the stiffening fabric from the outer gar ment fabric.

Following these stitching operations, the application of the usual steam-pressing operation melts and dissipates the adhesive into the fabric aces-,roo

scribed, since here the adhesive contacts rectly the exposed surfaces of both the facing and the outer garment fabric. It has been found, however, that when the process is controlled in the manner described and the adhesives are selected in accordance with this control, no observable effect of the adhesive appears after the garment is pressed. The adhesive is absorbed by the fabric, or so well dispersed in it and/or vaporized, that the garment has no observable stiffness or feel or appearance at the portions where the adhesive is present to distinguish the fabric from those portions to which the adhesive was not applied.

With respect to the adhesive, many substances are suitable for use. Dry comminuted adhesives which can be used, include white or bleached and orange shellac, synthetic resins 0f the thermoplastic type, including the ester gums, Manila gum, sodium mannitol borate, gelatin, gum arabic, and almost any kind of modified starch that has been cooked or partially dextrinized.

We prefer resins, and particularly those which have a relatively wide softening range inthe presence of heat and moisture before reaching. a melting or free-flowing range, in order to avoid the necessity for too accurate a controlof the initial steam treatment after application of the adhesive.' Alkyd. resins of the polybasic acid, polyhydric alcohol reaction type with modifications of fatty acids orother resins are suitable. We have found suitable a mixture in equal proportion of (1) a tough alkyd having a softening point of 64 to 67 0., but with abroad melting range, and (2) a brittle alkyd having a softening point of 100 to 115 0., and a narrower melting range.

Particles of dry adhesive should not be too large, since a lumpy appearance may be given; they should not be too small, since the adhesive efiect may not be secured, due to the particles dropping into the interstices of the fabric, and, therefore, failing to come into sufficiently intimate contact with the fabric surface. For manufacture of coat-fronts with medium weight wool fabrics, such as 15 ounce material having a thread count of approximately 30 threads to the inch, we have found that particles of shellac, alkyd resins, sodium mannitol borate, or other substances which pass through a 35 mesh screen (referring to the Tyler standard screen scale) and which will remain on a mesh screen, are of a suitable size. The dry comminuted adhesives hereinbefore mentioned are of the character which are non-tacky at room temperatures, 1. e., temperatures of the order from to F. By non-tacky, we mean having no appreciable adhesive property from the standpoint of adhering the fabric layers. However, it is to be understood that we may use in comminuted form adhesives which are tacky at roof-n temperatures, and these may beartiflcially or positively cooled prior to and until application, in order to prevent adherence of one particle to another and to insure proper distribution of the particles on the fabric. Such adhesives are of value when little or no heat or steam is desired to obtain the adhesive union, and for this purpose resins of an alkyd type which are tacky 'at room temperature or the di (para tert-butylphenyl) mono (5 tertbutyl2 xenyl) phosphate adhesives hereinafter mentioned may be used.

When the adhesive is to be sprayed and is of a thermoplastic type, it should be in a heat-plasticized or molten state. For this purpose, the

spray gun may be fitted with heating elements with thermostatic control to maintain the adhesive at the required spraying consistency. An air nozzle may be arranged with its outlet adiacent an adhesive discharge nozzle and the air pressure should be adjusted so that it projects the adhesive in relatively small droplets well dispersed over the surface of the fabric. It is desirable that the adhesive be sprayed at a temperature which will cause the same to solidify as sticky globules on the surface of the fabric without penetrating the fabric to any appreciable extent. It is also preferable that the droplets be sufficiently spaced and small to avoid a change in the feel or hand of the fabric after the adhesive is dispersed into the fabric layer by further pressing to release the bond.

Where heat is desired in the initial treatment after adhesive is applied to one of the layers, the sprayed molten adhesive may be an alkyd resin mixture of the type above described or a mixture of plasticized polystyrene melting about 95 to 110 C. and a chlorinated diphenyl melting about 60 to 65 0., in proportions, respectively, of 25 to 75%. This mixture may also, like the alkyd resin, be granulated and applied in dry form.

Generally, it is desirable that the sprayed adhesive when it strikes the fabric be virtually free of solvent, and, therefore, the resin in the spray gun should be virtually solvent-free, since it is impracticable to remove the solvent in the period between spraying and basting. Melted pure resinous compositions without volatile solvents are, therefore, preferred. The droplets are preferably, therefore, pure molten adhesive like the granular adhesive, except that the granular adhesive is ground before application, and the melted adhesive is broken by an air jet and applied while still in the form of broken droplets.

Although such a spray may cool to non-adhesive condition before application of the fabric layer thereto, the subsequent application of controlled steam brings the adhesive to a plastic, non-flowing state.

When the adhesive is sprayed, particularly if the use of heat is not necessary or desirable, we prefer an adhesive which does not completely harden at room or operating temperatures, but which while tacky has sufficient adhesive property to maintain the union of the fabric layers during subsequent manufacturing operations. It is necessary, of course, that the adhesive be of a character which will be dissipated in the manner hereinbefore described by the application of heat and/or steam. Complete hardening of the adhesive in many operations, as in the basting of the facing, is unnecessary, since a somewhat .tacky adhesive having adhesion properties sufficient to maintain registry of the layers during sewing operations and which can be dissipated by application of heat will be found satisfactory. Such adhesives do become, however, relatively solidified or hardened as compared to their state when applied. Moreover, it is desirable that the adhesive be of a character which does not require an extreme degree of pressure, since in many operations, such as the facing-basting, cold pressure of relatively light character is all that is desired. An advantage of the use of a tacky, as distinguished from a completely hardened adhesive in certain operations, is that such an adhesive leaves the facing layer, for example, free for suitable adjustment to obtain the required shaping.

composition which contains'di (para tert-butylphenyl) mono (5 (tertbutyl-2 xenyl) phosphate and other adhesively similar complex phosphates, as a base material, a brittle resin such as an ester gum or terpene polymer to harden the base material and maintain tackiness at room temperatures, and a dispersing and wetting agent such as di-octyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinate and other similarly effective esters of sulfodicarboxylic acids to assist in the final dispersion and penetration in the fabric. The base material may be used alone by working in a lower temperature range, but there are advantages in the addition of a harder resin and a dispersing agent as modifiers. The harder resin and the dispersing agent may be any, which, when incorporated in our base material, raises its fiow point without appreciably affecting its tackiness in contact with the fabrics. A suitable composition is as follows:

- Base material: Per cent Di (para tert--butylphenyl) mono (5 tert-butyl-Z-xenyl) phosphate--- 75-85 Terpene polymer (M. P. 120-130 0.)- 10-20 Di-octyl ester of sodium sulfo-succinate The base material is melted and other ingredients added and allowed to dissolve. The composition is then ready for spraying. The adhesive should be maintained while in the spray gun at a temperature which keeps it in a suffioiently molten state to strike the fabric in rather plastic form and in adhesive condition and to remain adhesive for a period of time if initial adhesion without heat is desired. On the other hand, if steam is to be used, as inthe canvas adhesive-basting process, the material must be sprayed at a higher temperature, so that it may harden to a non-adhesive state after striking the canvas and thereafter be softened to an adhesive condition by the initial steam application, or it may be applied in comminuted form.

Regardless of the adhesive used, it will be seen that the process affords accurate shaping independently of any manipulative skill together with simultaneous adhesive-basting, as distinguished from stitching-basting. Not only the expense and necessarily variable shaping incident to stitching-basting are avoided, but also the removal of basting threads is eliminated. The adhesive used maybe readily removed by asimple steam-pressing operation, such as is always employed in garment manufacture. Hence, no steps need be'added to the usual manufacturing operations. ,Since the adhesive is applied in controlled amount and at spaced or isolated spots, as distinguished from a continuous film, its melting and dissipation into the fabric with any incidental volatilization which may occur, does not change the appearance or feel of the fabric. The temporary adhesion along isolated areas, as shown in Figure 4, is found to be equally as ef- 3 ficient as stitching basting; therefore the uniform shape produced by the simultaneous mechanical shaping is retained until and during final stitching.

If the adhesive substance employed has watersoluble properties, the steam employed assists in original adhesion and in the final pressing operation will assist in dissipating it.

The terms "fibrous material" and "fabric as used throughout the specification and claims are For spraying in the facing-basting, we prefer a '75 intended to cover textile or other fabrics, as well as unwoven fibrous material, such as, for example, the padding sometimes used in the shoulder portions of men's coats. By reference to "dissipatlon of the adhesive" is meant melting or flowing, or volatilization, to an extent that the two layers held together by the adhesive during the basting operation will separate or fall apart easily, as by mere handling in ordinary use.

Application of the process to garment parts other than those specifically described herein and to other garments than coats, will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Likewise, adhesive substances other than those mentioned can be used. and will become apparent to those skilled in the art. The treatment given to the fabrics and adhesive substance to modify the adhesive and to dissipate the same may be varied in any suitable manner, and any modifications coming within the scope of the following claims are comprehended by the invention.

By the term particles," as applied to the adhesive, is meant adhesive in either dry or plastic form.

This application is a continuation-in-part of our pending application Serial No. 285,648, filed July 21, 1939.

We claim:

1. In the manufacture of outer garments of the coat type which comprise an outer garmentfabric and an inner stiffening fabric stitched together at spaced points but free of one another intermediate the stitching, the improved method of uniting and shaping the fabric layers of portions of such garments preliminary to final stitching, which comprises placing a pre-cut fabric layer of a portion of the garment on a form having the shape to be imparted to said portion, superimposing another pre-cut layer of said garment portion on said first-mentioned layer, positioning between said layers adhesive 01 a character and in an amount effective to maintain the layers united adhesively at room temperature but which will become dissipated without effecting the garment appearance when subjected to sufiicient heat to cause the same to flow, simultaneously warping and adhering said two fabric layers to each other by subjecting the two layers with the interposed adhesive in non-flowing condition to pressure while permitting the adhesive to adhere the layers, then stitching the layers together, and thereafter destroying the adhesive union by subjecting the layers to heat sufficient to cause flow and dissipation of the adhesive.

2. In the manufacture of outer garments of the coat type which comprise an outer garment fabric and an inner stifiening fabric stitched together at spaced points but free of one another intermediate the stitching, the improved method of uniting and shaping the fabric layers of portions of such garments preliminary to final stitching, which comprises placing a pre-cut fabric layer of a portion of the garment on a form having the shape to be imparted to said portion, superimposing another pre-cut layer of said garment portion on said first-mentioned layer, positioning between said layers adhesive of a character and in an amount effective to maintain the layers united adhesively at room temperature but which will become dissipated without affecting the garment appearance when subjected to sufflcient steam to cause the same to flow, simultaneously warping and adhering said two frabric layers to each other by subjecting the two layers with the interposed adhesive in non-flowing condition to pressure while permitting the particles to adhere the layers, then stitching the layers together, and thereafter destroying the adhesive union by subjecting the layers to steam sufficient to cause flow and dissipation of the adhesive.

3. In the manufacture of outer garments of the coat type which'comprise an outer garmentfabric and an inner stiffening fabric stitched together at spaced points but free of one another intermediate the stitching, the improved method of uniting and shaping the fabric layers-of portions of such garments preliminary to final stitching, which comprises placing a pre-cut fabric layer of a portion of the garment on a form having the shape to be imparted to said portion, superimposing another pre-cut layer of said garment portion on said first-mentioned layer, positioning between said layers plastic non-flowing droplets of a thermoplastic adhesive in an amount effective to unite the layers adhesively but which will become dissipated without affecting the garment appearance when subjected to heat sufficient to cause the same to melt and fiow, simultaneously warping and adhering said two fabric layers to each other by subjecting the two layers with the interposed thermoplastic particles in plastic non-flowing condition to pressure while permitting the particles to adhere the layers, then stitching the layers together, and thereafter destroying the adhesive union by subjecting th layers to heat sufllcient to cause flow and dissipation of the adhesive.

4. In the manufacture of outer garments of the coat type which comprise an outer garmentfabric and an inner stifiening fabric stitched together at spaced points but free of one another intermediate the stitching, the improved method of uniting and shaping the fabric layers of portions of such garments preliminary to final stitching, which comprises placing a pre-cut fabric layer of a portion of the garment on a form having the shape to be imparted to said portion, superimposing another pre-cut layer of said garment portion on said first-mentioned layer, positioning between said layers dry comminuted particles of a thermoplastic adhesive in an amount effective to unite the layers adhesively when relatively solidified from a plastic condition but which will become dissipated without affecting the garment appearance when subjected to heat sufdcient to cause the same to melt and flow, simultaneously warping and adhering said two fabric layers to each other by subjecting the two layers with the intermediate thermoplastic particles to pressure and heat suflicient to shape the garment portion and cause the adhesive to soften to a plastic state without flowing and dissipation thereof, permitting the adhesive to relativelysolidify while maintaining registration of the fabric layers, then stitching the fabric layers together, and thereafter destroying the adhesive union by subjecting the layers to heat suificient to cause flow and dissipation of the adhesive.

5. In the manufacture of outer garments of the coat type which comprise an outer garmentfabric and an inner stiffening fabric stitched together at spaced points but free of one another intermediate the stitching, the improved method of uniting and shaping the fabric layers of portions of such garments preliminary to final stitching, which comprises placing a pre-cut fabric layer of a portion of the garment on a form having the shape to be imparted to said portion. warping the layer by subjecting the layer to heat interposed adhesive in non-flowing condition to pressure while permitting the particles to adhere the layers, then stitching the layers together, and thereafter destroying the adhesive union by subjecting the layers to combined steam and pressure'sumclently to cause dissipation of the adhesive into the fabric.

6. In the manufacture of outer garments of the coat type which comprise an outer garmentfabric and an inner stiffening fabric stitched together at spaced points but free of one another intermediate the stitching, the improved method of uniting and shaping the fabric layers of portions of such garments preliminary to final stitching, which comprises placing a pre-cut fabric layer of a portion of the garment on a form having the shape to be imparted to said portion, subjecting the layer to heat and pressure sufficient to shape the same on the form, super-imposing another pre-cut layer of said garment portion on said first-mentioned layer, positioning between said layers particles of a thermoplastic adhesive in an amount effective to unite the layers adhesively but which will become dissipated without affecting the garment appearance when subjected to heat sufilcient to cause the same to melt and flow, simultaneously warping and adhering said two fabric layers to each other by subjecting the two layers with the interposed thermoplastic particles in plastic non-flowing condition to pressure while permitting the particles to relatively solidify and adhere the layers, then stitching the layers together, and thereafter destroying the adhesive union by subjecting the layers to heat sufiicient to cause fiow and dissipation of the adhesive. I

7. In the manufacture of outer garments of the coat type which comprise an outer garmentfabric and an inner stiffening fabric stitched together at spaced points but free of one another intermediate the stitching, the improved method of uniting and shaping the said fabric layers of such garments to obtain desired registration thereof for final stitching, which comprises placing the pre-cut stiffening layer on a form having the shape to be imparted to the garment portion, superimposing the pre-cut outer garment-fabric layer upon the shaped stillening layer and positioning between said layers plastic, non-flowing droplets of a thermoplastic adhesive in an amount effective to unite the layers adhesively and which will become dissipated without affecting the garment appearance when subjected to heat suilicient to cause the same to melt and flow, simultaneously warping and adhering said two fabric layers to each other by subjecting the two layers with the interposed thermoplastic particles to pressure while permitting the particles to adhere to the layers, then stitching the layers together and thereafter destroying the adhesive union by subjecting the layers to heat sufficient to cause flow and dissipation of the adhesive.

8. In the manufacture of outer garments of the coat type which comprise an outer garment fabric, an inner stiifening fabric stitched thereto at spaced points but free of one another intermediate the stitching and a facing of a garment fabric on the side of the stiffening fabric opposite to the outer garment fabric, the improved method of shaping and uniting the fabric of the facing layer with the outer garment fabric preliminary to final stitching and subsequent turning of the layers which comprises placing on a form having the shape to be imparted to said garment portion one of said pre-cut garment fabric layers, superimposing the other pre-cut garment fabric layer directly on said first mentioned layer, positioning between said layers thermoplastic adhesive in an amount effective to unite the layers and which will become dissipated without affecting the garment fabric appearance when subjected to heat sufiicient to cause the same to melt and fiow, simultaneously warping and adhering said two fabric layers to each other by subjecting the two layers while on said form to pressure with the adhesive in a plastic non-flowing state and permitting the particles to adhere the layers while under pressure, then stitching the layers together, thereafter destroying the adhesive union by subjecting the layer to heat sumcient to cause flow and dissipation of the adhesive, and; then turning the garment portion to position the garment fabric layers on opposite sides of the stiffening layer.

9. In the manufacture of outer garments of the coat type which comprise an outer garment fabric, an inner stifiening fabric stitched thereto at spaced points but free of one another intermediate the stitching and a facing of garment fabric on the side of the stiffening fabric opposite to the outer garment fabric, the improved method of shaping and uniting the fabric of the facing layer with the outer garment fabric preliminary to final stitching and subsequent turning of the layers which comprises placing on a form having the shape to be imparted to said garment portion one of said pre-cut garment fabric layers, superimposing the other pre-cut garment fabric layer directly on said first mentioned layer, positioning between said layers substantially non-flowing droplets of heat-plasticized thermoplastic adhesive which at room temperature is tacky and effective to unite the layers and which will become dissipated without affecting the garment fabric appearance when subjected to heat sufllcient to cause the same to melt and flow, simultaneously warping and adhering said two fabric layers to each other by subjecting the two layers while on said form to pressure while permitting the particles to adhere the layers, then stitching the layers together, thereafter destroying the adhesive union by subjecting the layers to heat sufllcient to cause flow and dissipation of the adhesive and then turning the garment portion to position the garment fabric layers on opposite sides of the stiffening layer.

10. In the manufacture of outer garments of portion, superimposing another pre-cut layer of said garment portion on said first-mentioned layer, positioning between said layers thermoplastic adhesive of a character and in an amount effective to unite the layers adhesively when positively cooled to a temperature below normal room temperature but which will substantially lose its adhesive eifect at temperatures of the order of normal room temperature and will become dissipated without affecting the garment appearance when subjected to sumcient heat to cause the same to flow, simultaneously warping and adhering said two fabric layers to each other by subjecting the two layers with the interposed adhesive in a non-flowing condition to pressure while positively cooling the particles to adhere the layers, then stitching the layers together at normal room temperature before the particles have lost their adhesive effect, and thereafter dissipating the adhesive by subjecting the layers to heat suflicient to cause flow and dissipation of the adhesive.

11. In the manufacture of outer garments of the coat type which comprise an outer garmentfabric and an inner stiffening fabric stitched together at spaced points but free of one another intermediate the stitching, the improved method of uniting and shaping the fabric layers of portions of such garments preliminary to final 6 said garment portion on said first-mentioned layer, positioning between said layers non-flowing droplets of a thermoplastic adhesive of a character and in an amount effective to unite the layers adhesively when positively cooled to a 10 temperature below normal room temperature but which will substantially lose its adhesive effect at temperatures of the order of normal room temperature .and will become dissipated without affecting the garment appearance when 5 subjected to sufficient heat to cause the same to flow, simultaneously warping and adhering said two fabric layers to each other by subjecting the two layers with the interposed adhesive in a nonfiowing condition to pressure while positively 20 stitching the layers together at normal room cooling the particles to adhere the layers, then temperature before the particles have lost their adhesive effect, and thereafter dissipating the adhesive by subjecting the layers to heat sum- 25 cient to cause flow and dissipation of the adhesive.

RAYMOND H. REISS. HOWARD J. BILLINGS.

CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION.

Patent No 2,258,100

,October' 7, 19in.

RAYMOND H. REISS, ET AL.

It is hereby certified that error appears inthe printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows: Page 8, second column, line 21, claim 11, Strikeout the words "cooling the particles to adhere the layers, then" and insert the same after the word "positively" in line 19, same claim; and that the said Letters Patent should be read withthis correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 25th day of November, A. D. 19141.

(Seal) Henry Van Arsdale, Acting Commissionerof Patents. 

